Now I am not a true denim whore, but I do like to rock SELVAGE whenever I can. My first pair of "nice" jeans was back in 2007 when I had my first pair of RED MONKEY jeans. These were the jeans Jay-Z rocked and they cost a pretty penny. Fast forward a few years I was able to grab a pair of Yoropiko jeans
then I was hip to the GAP 1969 collection. FINALLY some Selvage jeans that were "reasonable" in price. I picked up 2 pair of the Gap ones. I guess I am snobby in the sense that I will probably NEVER own a pair of True Religion, and I do have a pair of Sevens and Diesel jeans that I got on discount at Nordstrom Rack, and I consider those my "cheap" jeans.
see the link below to a great article on Tellason which is a local shop in SF that makes some good shit...I am still looking to find a pair in the wild!
What makes these jeans worth $198?
Sunday, January 1, 2012With the average pair of jeans sold in the United States retailing for $37, less than most city drivers these days spend on a tank of gas, it's easy to question the practical wisdom of dropping $200 on a pair of so-called premium denim jeans.
But plenty of guys are willing to pay that - or more - for jeans made of selvage denim and sold in stores catering to denim-buying men. What's the allure of a higher-priced pair?
"I didn't grow up with a lot of money, but my parents always said, 'We're too poor to be cheap.' Get the pair that lasts longer," says Howard Gee, owner of North Beach's AB Fits, which specializes in premium men's denim brands and also sells its own line of jeans for men.
Jeans cut and sewn from selvage fabric, made on old-fashioned shuttle looms that produce textiles with closed edges known for their durability, may cost more to produce than denim made using fabric created on the wider and more efficient modern-day looms used by the vast majority of manufacturers. But they are known for lasting longer than their cheaper counterparts, as well as for offering other benefits.
"They form to your body, you get your own natural wear patterns, they last longer, it's more environmentally friendly," says Tony Patella, who co-founded local denim label Tellason in 2009 with Pete Searson.
Tellason, which manufactures its denim in a SoMa factory, is one of a handful of denim labels producing men's jeans featuring selvage denim and other high-end details in small or limited quantities in the Bay Area. Others include Gustin and AB Fits, as well as Self Edge exclusives Roy Denim, made by one-man-operation Roy Slaper in Oakland, and 3sixteen+, a design collaboration with 3sixteen, a New York label that manufactures in San Francisco.
The notion that paying a little more may net you a sturdier product capable of lasting longer is one likely to appeal to many male shoppers, according to recent data from textile industry group Cotton Incorporated. While women are more likely to choose jeans based on style, men buying new jeans prize comfort, fit, durability and quality above almost everything else and far ahead of style or brand name.
Of course, practical concerns aren't the only consideration.
Says Tellason's Searson: "We just believe people should care about how things are made and where they're made."
The model: John Graham Mellor Slim Straight ($198, DDD). Made in San Francisco, using Cone Mills White Oak Selvedged denim in a 12.5-ounce weight made for the label, with thread from North Carolina and buttons and rivets made with a copper oxide finish by a Kentucky company.
Inspected by: Official stamp of approval made by either Tony or Pete, who inspect each pair.
Patch: Leather patch (back waist) by Portland's Tanner Goods.
Longevity: As it ages, raw denim forms to the wearer's body and develops its own natural wear patterns and markings. Raw denim is also unprocessed, so it not only wears differently, but does not involve chemical treatments or labor-intensive processes that artificially distressed denim requires.
Durability: Polycotton thread (pigskin-hued thread) for added strength, and 10 stitches per inch, a ratio similar to finely tailored menswear, also for strength. Reinforced stitching on belt loops and pocket corners.
Pockets: Bar tacks on pockets instead of metal rivets. Bottom half of back pockets lined with the same heavyweight twill found in front pockets, a.k.a. bags, for longer wear.
Logo: Back pockets feature a subtle "T" in dark blue thread, the brand's alternative to a logo or logo tag.
Hem: Chain stitching on bottom hem, and red selvage line is a sign that the jeans were created on vintage shuttle looms.
Seams: Busted side seams lie flat against the leg.
Extras: Free hemming service on any pair, regardless of where you purchased them. Extra-tall customers can custom order pairs with longer inseams.
S.f. denim resources
AB Fits (AB Fits, Tellason, Gustin): www.abfits.com.
Jack's (Gustin): www.jackssf.com.
Revolver (Tellason): www.revolversf.com.
Self Edge (Roy Denim, 3sixteen and 3sixteen+): www.selfedge.com.
Taylor Stitch (Tellason): www.taylorstitch.com
Union Made (Union Made Indigo, Tellason): unionmadegoods.com.
AB Fits: www.abfits.com.
Roy Denim: www.roydenim.com. Made by one man (Roy Slaper) in Oakland and sold exclusively at Self Edge.
3sixteen and 3sixteen+: www.3sixteen.com. This NYC company produces its denim in San Francisco and offers collaborative line 3sixteen+ designed with Self Edge's Kiya Babzani.